Victory over Japan day has never been a big celebration for me during my life time, but it takes on new significance being in Korea. I have only seriously talked to a very few people here about their feeling towards Japan, but most still hold an animosity toward them lingering from the Japanese occupation during most of the first half of the 20th century-even some who weren’t even living at the time. It was our victory over Japan that won South Korea’s freedom from a very brutal and oppressive occupation that lasted most recently for over 35 years.
These feelings were prolonged by the lack of U.S. sensitivity to the Korean’s attitudes toward the Japanese occupation as the U.S. military leaders enlisted the help of some of the Japanese officials who had been in control in Korea, as well as Korean’s who were viewed as Japanese “puppets” or sympathizers, during U.S. assistance in Korea following the end of the war. It took several years following the defeat of Japan to really cleanse the Korean government of the last vestiges of the occupation.
Remnants of the Japanese occupation remain here on USAG Yongsan where I am stationed. Many of the older buildings were built by the Japanese to house their military and government infrastructure. While the insides have been sufficiently remodeled and updated, the exteriors remain pretty much as they were during the first half of the 20th century though most symbols and references to Japan, if ever prominent, have long since been removed from view. (A pretty good article about the remaining structures can be found here.)
So for most Americans 14 August will come and go without much thought to our Victory over Japan 70 years ago, but for many Koreans it represents liberation and freedom from decades of oppression.
As we got off of the bus, we were greeted by this portion of the fortress.
One of the commander’s programs that I run as the chaplain is an orientation for newcomers to the brigade which gives newly-arrived Soldiers guided experience using public transportation, visiting a cultural site and eating at a Korean restaurant. Not wanting my first time there to be when I lead my first group, today my chaplain assistant took me, along with my incoming assistant and our KATUSA, on the trip to “recon” the site and “rehearse” our movement.
On the right is my present (but leaving) chaplain assistant; on the left is my new one and in the middle is my KATUSA.
We started by meeting on post near the dining facility then taking the post shuttle to the gate. Exiting the gate, we walked to the train/subway station and got on the #4 southbound train (toward Samgakji) at the Sookmyung Women’s University stop. After changing trains in Geumjeong onto the #1 southbound (toward Gunpo), we arrived at the Suwon station. Making our way to ground level, we caught a bus (can take either the #11 or #13) to the fortress. After visiting the fortress then walking to the restaurant for lunch, we made our way back to the bus stop (again, either #11 or #13 in the same direction) for our return trip to Yongsan via the #1 northbound back to Geumjeong then the #4 northbound. On the return trip, however, we got off at the Samgakji stop which was a bit shorter of a walk onto post (and out of the now falling rain).
The Suwan Hwaseong Fortress was an interesting site to see, and we just saw part of it. According to the visitor’s map:
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, Historic Sites No. 3, was built over two years and nine months, from January 1794 to September 1796, by King Jeongjo, the 22nd king of the Joseon Dynasty, to move the tomb of his father Crown Prince Jangheon, also known as Crown Prince Sado, because of his filial duty to his father.
The wall is approximately 5.7 kilometers long (varies between 4 to 6 meters at different points) and was designed by the silhak scholars Yu, Hyeong-won and Jeong, Yak-yong. It is known as a unique structure in the history of architecture because of its use of stones and bricks together in a modern fortress structure to deflect arrows, spears, swords, guns, and cannons; its use of standardized materials; and its use of new scientific and practical mechanic apparatuses such as Geojunggi.
For 200 years, the walls and structures had been collapsing, particularly during the Korean War. The restoration and repair of the fortress began in 1975, based on books that recorded in detail the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress Construction called Hwaseong Seongyeokigwe.
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was registered as a World Heritage Site in the 21st Assembly of the UNESCO World Heritage Committee in Napoli, Italy on the 6th day of December 1997.
Here are some more pictures from our trip. In some of them, it may appear as though we are having a good time, but in reality we were working…hard!
Starting our trip on the post shuttle…On the train on the way to Suwon, my assistant struck up a conversation with an old Korean.
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The “mall” in the Suwon train station.The view of Suwon from the exit of the train station.The buses had TV and free WiFI!Our first view of part of the fortress as we got off of the bus.Down this street you can see the long path of steps we will be climbing!Many steps…Many, many steps!Once we got to the top, there were a lot of neat things to see. This is Seosam Ammun. An “Ammun” is a secret gate “set up in a deep spot to provide war supplies to the fortress without being caught by enemies. In case of an emergency, an ammun could be closed by filling it up with stones and laying some earth next to the gate.”There were several Chiseongs or turrets “to monitor and attack enemies who had reached the fortress.”This is SeoPoru. A “Porus” is a sentry post.This is the “March 1st Independence Movement Memorial.” It is “to commemorate Korean ancestors’ valuable resistance to regain the national sovereignty and pray for the repose of their soul.”This is the Memorial of Korean Independence. It was “established on August 15th, 1948 by Suwon citizens to commemorate Korea’s restoration of independence.”Now we come to the bell of Filial Piety. The bell is “tolled” (?) every hour 1000-1800 daily, three times. The first toll is to show gratitude and respect to your parents. The second is to wish for your family’s health and harmony. The third is to wish for the realization of your dreams.I had to give it a shot!It was impossible to miss!Of course my assistant had to give it a go!Up from the Filial Bell was another ammun which we went out and saw the outside of the wall up close.…and the other side.Then looking down the hill from the wall to an interesting formation of trees.Moving on, we came to the highest point of the fortress, the SeoJandae. A jangdae is a command post and this one was “where military command was established around the fortress at the summit of Paldal Mountain.”From SeoJangdae there were great views of Suwon city below.From SeoJangdae there were great views of Suwon city below.From SeoJangdae there were great views of Suwon city below.Starting down Paldal Mountain, there was a bronze statue of King Jeongjo the Great, the King who had this fortress built. Notice the woman in red bowing down to the statue. Not sure if she was praying, or what but she had laid out a variety of food in front of the statue.It was an impressive statue. Notice again the woman in red spreading out a variety of food. Until I saw her kneel, I thought she was spreading out her lunch to eat it.On the way down from Paldal Mountain, we saw the trolley which runs around a large portion of the fortress (though not to the top!).Getting back to “city-level,” we started up a small street (I think it was Rodeo Street) to the restaurant we take the group to.…and here it is, *Something in Korean* Part I!Fortunately, we had our KATUSA to translate for us! I’m not sure why we were so bunched up for this picture…my assistants must really like me!They bring out a grill with hot coals to cook at the table. The pipe above it (and at each table) is a vent that sucks out the smoke.Our KATUSA (as the youngest) also did the cooking!I ordered the Bulgogi, which comes with a lot of extra stuff. It was great (much better than my Bulgogi Burger at McDonald’s)!On the way back to the bus, we came across a Buddhist monastery. Like all traditional Korean architecture, the buildings were very colorful.The other side of the entry arch showing more of the colorful and intricate architecture.There were places for the Buddhist monks and others to pray. This building seemed to have separate booths.This appeared to be more like a temple.Here’s the inside of the temple.The banner hanging higher, to the right, says something about praying for your children, that they will get into a good university.Finally on the train on the way home, our KATUSA was wore out!
Alright, I finally found that elusive McDonald’s in Itaewon! I got a Double Bulgogi Burger meal for just ￦5500 (about $5) and it was delicious! Not only that, my Coke came in a hard plastic (not-disposable) glass!
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I know that this isn’t “real” Korean food, but it is unique to Korean McDonald’s and “bulgogi” is a Korean-seasoned beef (and…I like McDonald’s).
Staying at the hotel, then once moved into my quarters and not having time to get to the commissary I’ve been having to eat out every meal. This is getting old! Finally today after work I had time to get to the commissary to get some food. I was limited on how much I could get since I had to take a taxi to my quarters, but at least I got a start.
I was surprised at how large and well-stocked the commissary is. I could find just about anything I was looking for, with the exception of turkey lunch meat, which I thought was odd. It could just be that they were out, but the only packaged lunch meat I found was roast beef and salami. Curious.
At any rate, I was able to get some food in the frig and cupboards so I can eat at home more.
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Not a lot, but enough for now.Got to have some junk food, right?They sure make a big deal about their eggs! (I know that the picture is upside down. Baffled).Spam, yes! Interestingly, spam is much-loved here in Korea!
I guess when I was setting my alarm last night (half asleep) I set the time an hour ahead too. I didn’t notice until I went to an office wondering why they weren’t open yet! I didn’t think that I was bothered by jet-lag, but I was up early and it didn’t feel odd, so I guess maybe I’m not adjusted yet!
I didn’t want to be stuck in the hotel or on base all weekend, so I just went a little off post on Saturday, but walked for about 4 hours. I saw just a small part of Seoul, Yongsan-Gu. It was really hot and frankly, the walk wore me out but it was nice to see this side of Seoul and experience the culture just a little bit. My one interaction was buying a bottle of water. I don’t know what he said, but gave him a large enough bill that I knew it was enough. I counted it up later and I think that bottle of water was just about a quarter!
Here are some pictures from my walk with descriptions below them (coming soon):
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I’m not sure what this drink is (the other side says “Chilsung Cider”) but it’s cheap, tasty and refreshing!A large Christian Church.A common site in the U.S., I didn’t expect so many 7-11s here but there is just about one every other block in one section of town where I walked!A padded sidewalk. This was a relief by this time on my walk!Another large Christian Church.You can barely see the roofs of these houses but they seem to be much more modest than the apartment buildings all around them. They are located between the tall city high-rises and the river (right beside the railroad tracks).A sample of the road signs. Most have Korean and English (thankfully!).A prominent recruiting sign. All Korean males are required to serve for 2 years in the military or (as I understand it) some other government job. Some, however, choose to make the military a career.The description of an historic site (which I just stumbled over on my walk) from the late Joseon period (1392-1910). It is the Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion, where King Jeongjo stopped to rest before crossing the Han River. The next few pictures are of this site, with a description of it in English.Looking up a street on the far side of the Hangang from Yongsan.Crossing under busy intersections through tunnels and passage ways.A really good map of the area but the only thing is English is “You are here”!The description of the Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion in English.Inside the Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.Inside the Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.Inside the Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.The Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.The Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.The Yongyangbongjeojeong Pavilion.Yet another large Christian Church.A view of the city from the bridge crossing the Hangang (Han River).A view of the city from the bridge crossing the Hangang (Han River).A view of the city.A view of the city to include some of the traffic. This was mild.On an island in the Han River, connected by a bridge, there is space for public vegetable gardens (at least until construction begins on the planned development of the island. You can read more about the island here: http://english.seoul.go.kr/policy-information/urban-planning/urban-planning/2-introduction-to-nodeulseom/On an island in the Han River, connected by a bridge, there is space for public vegetable gardens (at least until construction begins on the planned development of the island. You can read more about the island here: http://english.seoul.go.kr/policy-information/urban-planning/urban-planning/2-introduction-to-nodeulseom/On an island in the Han River, connected by a bridge, there is space for public vegetable gardens (at least until construction begins on the planned development of the island. You can read more about the island here: http://english.seoul.go.kr/policy-information/urban-planning/urban-planning/2-introduction-to-nodeulseom/A Korean military monument (apparently honoring Korean “airborne” Soldiers) is on the island just in front of the public vegetable gardens.A Korean military monument (apparently honoring Korean “airborne” Soldiers) is on the island just in front of the public vegetable gardens.Nice hiking and biking trails along the Han River with places to stop for rest, refreshment and exercise.
After seeing the apartment where they wanted to put me and feeling so down and wanting even more to go home, I got to thinking about other possibilities and looked up AR 210-50, “Housing Management” where at 3-6, n. it states, “Unmarried chaplains and unaccompanied married chaplains will compete equally for AFH [Accompanied Family Housing] with sponsors within the appropriate grade category.” Could it be? Dare I hope?
This provision has been used primarily for Roman Catholic chaplains who seldom have family and shouldn’t be stuck in single-Soldier housing just because their faith demands they remain single, but the provision “unaccompanied married chaplains” opens it up to any chaplain, regardless of marital or religious status, to be eligible for family housing. There is a variety of reasons for this, to include the need for study space away from the commotion of the office, accommodations to meet with Soldiers when they can’t meet at the chaplain’s office, Bible Studies or “presence” social gatherings. Essentially, often the chaplain needs additional space for the performance of his duties much like a commander does, so this provision in Army regulations allows for it.
I went in to talk to the housing office about it and referenced the regulation but the representative I met with didn’t know anything about it so referred me to her supervisor. When I sat down with the supervisor, she looked at my cross (I was in uniform) and said, “Oh, you’re a chaplain! Let’s see what we can do.” She then gave me two duplexes to look at and told me to let her know if either would be acceptable. I looked at the first and it was in a great location with an abundance of trees and seclusion. It seemed to also be a two-bedroom, with the 2nd bedroom used as an office. But it was older and worse for the wear but the size and location made it leaps and bounds better than the 1st apartment they showed me.
The 2nd duplex looked newly remodeled from the outside. When I got inside it looked as though nobody had stayed in it since it had been remodeled. It had all new appliances, cabinets, shelving and bathroom fixtures. I couldn’t believe it! It didn’t take me long to decide on this one. I rushed back to housing, afraid she would give it to someone else before I confirmed that I wanted it. We set an appointment for Monday for the inspection and to sign for it.
I feel much better!
Here are a few pictures of my new -better- home for the next year (a little askew, sorry…I like them straight and in order too):
Here’s the outside of my duplex, my door is on the left. I sure don’t like those trash cans, though!A view of the living room which is actually a “great room” with the kitchen on the other side. The TV stand is still empty, giving me more time to blog!
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I have a humungous laundry room (the other half isn’t in the picture!) with a large closet with shelving for storage…but I didn’t bring that much stuff!Here’s the other side of the “great room” showing the kitchen. There’s not a lot of cabinet space, but I really don’t need much.
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Here’s one side of the giant walk-in closet in the bedroom…I don’t have that many clothes!The bathroom has a shower big enough for a crowd (though I don’t plan on sharing!).
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Here’s the other side of the walk-in closet.The closet side of the bedroom.
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A double bed, but it’s a hard one!There’s room in the bedroom for a bookcase and my desk, though efficiency experts say not to do that….
This afternoon I saw the housing I’ll likely be assigned. I just want to go home.
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Here’s some pictures of where they want to put me:
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I know it’s not all that bad and certainly nicer than my other deployments, but coming from my spread in the country…with my family…this just doesn’t feel good.
Victory over Japan day has never been a big celebration for me during my life time, but it takes on new significance being in Korea. I have only seriously talked to a very few people here about their feeling towards Japan, but most still hold an animosity toward them lingering from the Japanese occupation during most of the first half of the 20th century-even some who weren’t even living at the time. It was our victory over Japan that won South Korea’s freedom from a very brutal and oppressive occupation that lasted most recently for over 35 years.
Remnants of the Japanese occupation remain here on USAG Yongsan where I am stationed. Many of the older buildings were built by the Japanese to house their military and government infrastructure. While the insides have been sufficiently remodeled and updated, the exteriors remain pretty much as they were during the first half of the 20th century though most symbols and references to Japan, if ever prominent, have long since been removed from view. (A pretty good article about the remaining structures can be found here.)
![20150723_124604[1]](https://chaplainnews.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/20150723_1246041.jpg)
Chaplain News from the Front 